Indescribable Ireland

No matter how many pictures I snap, or how descriptive my words are, I cannot come even close to capturing the beauty, the culture, the essence of Ireland. For example, if I write about a walk down the path to Enniskerry from the Ritz, I would tell you about the green, mossy covered fields and how the golden leaves contrast against the smoky grey sky. A picture would reveal the old wooden fences weaving along the road, and the horses grazing in the mist. However, pictures and words cannot allow you to hear the animated chirping of red-breasted robins as they flit from tree to tree, or enable you to see the glow of morning light through the fog as it covers the land. You cannot feel the cool air against your skin, or the rain drops sliding down your cheeks and soaking your hair. Nothing I can say or show you is adequate. Breathing the brisk mountain air, strolling through the cool mist, soaking in the beauty of it all…this is the only way to experience Ireland.

Horses graze in the rolling fields outside the Ritz

The Enchanted Forest

Despite plans to drive to Waterford and tour the Crystal Factory, jetlag had finally caught up with us. We ended up sleeping in until about 9:30am, and didn’t reach Eniskerry until close to 11:00am. We ate a late breakfast at Poppie’s and stuffed ourselves. My breakfast rivaled any of Crackerbarrel’s in both size and home-cooked goodness! Triangular pancakes with a thick honey/maple syrup, scrambled eggs, toast with raspberry jam (sold to the restaurant by a local), and thick slabs of bacon kept me full until dinnertime. Why is it that every country other than the U.S. cooks bacon to be juicy, thick, and usually at least 2 inches wide? It is fantastic. Matt Lansing, you would definitely appreciate it.

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It was a frigid, rainy, windy day in Eniskerry. Despite this, Avonie and I decided to be adventurous and walk the road back towards the Ritz and Powercourt. This was about a fifteen minute uphill stroll, and we ended up appreciating the cool air. The walk itself was beautiful. Ireland truly is the “Emerald Isle.” Green moss covers the stone walls, the grass brightly glistens with raindrops, and many of the trees continue to hold their greenery, despite the cold temperatures. It is impossible not to feel cheery when the environment is so colorful.

It is so beautiful here!

We chose to visit the Powerscourt Estate and Gardens this afternoon. I was not too excited about the idea of spending several hours in a “boring old garden.” However, it was close to the hotel, and with the nasty weather, we thought it was a good idea. When we checked into the gardens however, I quickly changed my mind. The back of the Estate was classic, with acres of green grass, stone pathways, statues and the gorgeous Triton lake in the center. However, it was not until we walked deeper into the garden that I was in absolute awe. The pathway took us into the heart of the gardens and suddenly, I felt as though I had stepped into a fairytale. Trees, ferns, and flowers glistened in the misty rain and the calm was only interrupted by the chirping of birds and the trickling of streams. There was almost an “enchantment” or sacredness to this place, and I marveled at it. There was a small open cave, with double arches in the Japanese garden. Green moss covered the stone and water trickled down into gutters that carried it into the pond nearby.

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We made our way to Tower Valley and found Pepperpot Tower; this tower turned out to be the scariest moment of our trip so far! The ancient stone tower is surrounded by spiky black iron rod fencing, with distorted cannons peeking out at intruders. The gate into the entrance of the tower was open, but the dark, shadowy interior was incredibly intimidating. There was no way of knowing if anyone was hiding in the tower, or what we would find. However, being the great adventures that we are, Avonie and I bravely took each step in the upward spiral until we reached the tower’s crown and bright, glorious daylight! Looking over the side, I felt a bit like Rapunzel, waiting for my prince to come rescue me….maybe that’s a bit too much. It was exhilarating though.
We strolled through the lovely English Walled gardens and followed the path past Dolphin Pond through the Rhododendron Walk.

Our last stop was possibly my favorite: the Pet Cemetery! Although Avonie had visited pet cemeteries in the past, this was my first experience with one. It was delightful. There were probably close to 30 tombstones, many engraved from the 1800’s and 1900’s with names, dates, and memories of beloved companions. Most of the graves belonged to dogs; however there was also many horses (including a Black Beauty!) and even a cow! Some of my favorite tombstones (word for word) included:

Doodle Chow. Died August 1938. Loving and Faithful Friend. You’re gone old friend. A grief too deep for tears fills all the emptiness you’ve left behind. Gone is the dear companionship of years, the love that passed all love of humankind.

Sting. Died May 21st, 1912, aged 12 years. Faithful Beyond Human Fidelity.

Chou Sun Yat Sen (Yaton). Died February 1st, 1923. When the body that lived at your side with its whimper of welcome is still now. When the spirit that answered your every mood is gone where ever it goes for good.

Tommy, Shetland Pony, Died March 2, 1936, Aged 32. Also, his wife Magic died 1926.

Kilfane, Irish Wolfhound, Died 20th October, 1911. Universally Beloved.

Eugenie, Jersey Cow, Died 1967, Aged 17 years. She had 17 calves and produced over 100,000 gallons of milk.

I could have spent another hour in the graveyard. It was so touching to see the memorials built by animal lovers to commemorate the lives of their beloved companions. The details were so carefully etched, and the poetic words moving. It was the highlight of my day. It proves the bond between man and animal can be so strong.

After we checked out the Powerscourt gift shop and visited Tara’s Palace (the world’s largest dollhouse), Avonie and I walked back to the Ritz to retrieve our car. She then drove us 5 miles down the road to visit the Powerscourt Waterfall, which is the tallest waterfall in Ireland! I had read reviews that indicated the waterfall was overrated and not worth the trip. However, I was not at all disappointed when we arrived! The water roared over the edge of the mountain, crashing thunderously on the rocks where we stood. We got soaked to the bone while taking pictures, but it was well worth it, even in the 35 degree weather! The sight was gorgeous!

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Upon reaching the hotel, we stripped off our wet clothes and went to the Ritz’s Sugar Loaf Lounge for tea and hot chocolate. After warming up, we headed for the spa. The indoor pool at the Powerscourt Ritz is beautiful. Swarovski crystals are imbedded into the bottom of the pool, causing the water to sparkle in the light. The hot pool was also great, with benches created to fit the shape of your body and bubbles rising out of them. Our only complaint was that the water was only lukewarm, not the 105 degrees that we prefer in America. However, if heat was what we were looking for, we didn’t have to look far! The steam room was so excruciatingly hot that I couldn’t breathe in it without having a coughing fit. I couldn’t take more than 5 minutes sitting inside, and I quickly left to shower. During our time in the pool, Avonie met a handsome Brazilian by the name of Cassio. They quickly hit it off, and she is hoping to see him again in Dublin before we leave. I also met a delightful woman named Libby, who works at a Massage Envy in L.A. She and her boyfriend had also bought the Groupon, and we discussed the various excursions we were planning to make. Avonie and I ended the evening with a free dinner voucher at McGill’s. I ordered a giant burger, which has made me feel so full and sleepy! We also received a free drink with the meal, and I enjoyed a pint of cider that I sampled a few nights before. As I can barely keep my eyes open now, I am signing off and hitting the pillow for an early start to Waterford Crystal.

Finding Nemo…literally.

We woke up bright and early for our expedition to the Outer Barrier Reef and Upolu Cay. After grabbing a yummy breakfast of syrupy French toast and a scalding mocha latte, I checked us in for our tour at the Ocean Freedom’s desk. We proceeded down to the Marlin Marina and met our crew on the Freedom. I have to say that from the moment I met this charming team, I never stopped smiling. The camaraderie the crew shared was so unique, and it is obvious that each person working there loves sharing the Reef with Cairn’s visitors. The first thing we did was grab coffee, as it was a bit chilly on deck. As we left the dock, there was a light rain and the sky was cloudy. Mist covered the tops of the mountains, hiding the lush rainforest from our view. It was an eerie but beautiful sight. I was thankful that the sun eventually showed up as we made our way to our dive location. Our first stop was part of the Outer Barrier Reef. We geared up and sat through an informative yet comical briefing on how to use a snorkel and not carelessly destroy the coral. Then it was time to make the jump, flippers (child-size) first! In doing so, I landed on top of a school of huge angel fish and was immediately immersed in the Reef. Words cannot accurately describe the wonders of the Reef, and I know I only brushed the surface of all the treasures it holds. Intricate coral formations hid brightly colored fish as I watched from just below the waves. After a few tries, I learned how to dive down a few more feet and get up close with the real-life cast of “Finding Nemo”  as well as swim side-by-side with sea turtles. Every time you went back up to clear your mask or flag down a buddy, you quickly wanted to immerse yourself again in the beauty of the Reef. We snorkeled for a few hours, trying to take it all in before it was time to board the Freedom once again for lunch. It was an all-you-can-eat affair of chicken legs, salad, sandwiches, coleslaw and more. There was not a disappointed tummy on the boat! After lunch, the crew took us to the lovely Upolou Cay, where we were split up into small groups and led on a snorkel safari. Meet my safari leader, Joey – a rather handsome guy (I was reminded just a bit of actor Owen Wilson) who did everything he could to ensure we saw the most on our tour. He took us to see giant grouper hiding under coral ledges and pointed out the clownfish hiding in the anemones. We also saw large rays snuggled in the sand and a few members of the tour even saw a few white-tipped reef sharks. Joey went above and beyond by taking my underwater camera on his own dive, and returning with incredible photos that I was unable to take on my snorkeling journey. He even brought back a few pictures of the deadly lionfish, which I was thrilled by. A few other new friends I made on the journey included a fun group of English backpackers (Emma, Natalie, and Sally) and a lovely Canadian by the name of Annie. The five of us stuck together for most of the trip and laughed more than was probably necessary. It was a fantastic tour, and I had no qualms about recommending Ocean Freedom to everyone I met in Cairns that night. Huge thanks to Carrie, Joey, and the rest of the charming crew for one of the best days of my life! You provided more customer service, delicious food, and one-on-one attention than I could have ever expected. And most of all, you provided every person on that tour with an adventure on the Reef that they will never forget.